Baobab bartender preparing some of the spot’s nature-inspired cocktails
Marco Senghor knows a thing or two about overcoming adversity of the architectural sort. The restaurateur – whose home ginger-brewing business infamously caused his ceiling to cave in from moisture damage some 15 years ago – recently suffered a devastating fire in a portion of his colorful Mission eatery, Bissap Baobab. Though he’s still picking up the pieces from last year’s blaze, Marco maintains an uncanny joie de vivre – a quality as indispensable in a host as salt and pepper on his table.
Or, in Marco’s case, tamarind and hibiscus. Or ginger or cocoa, depending on the dish.
West African Roots, Mission Address
Hailing from Senegal and of both Senegalese and French descent, Marco is currently operating his business out of Bissap’s adjacent sister restaurant, Little Boabab. Things are looking up: loyal fans continue to turn up in solid numbers, the spot’s dance floor stays busy on weekends, West Africa-inspired drinks are still in strong demand – and Marco recently scored a major culinary hit in convincing a young French relative to come cook for him.
The budding French toque’s previous work addresses? The Park Hyatt Vendome and the Ritz-Carlton Paris.
French chef Naim Fallahi
Fusing Senegalese, French influences
Like Marco, chef Naim Fellahi has roots in Africa, having lived in Morocco and Tunisia before moving to Paris. The 23-year-old began cooking school at age 15, which puts eight years’ haute cuisine work under his belt (the French school system requires that students select a career path early on). When Naim asked Marco if he could cook for him for a period while visiting San Francisco, Marco jumped at the chance to inject his Mission kitchen with new life.
Marco says Naim’s cooking has had an immediate impact. Customers are aware, he says, that “there is a magic hand behind dishes.”
Chef Naim Fallahi plates a dish at Baobab
“At the same time we’re trying to cure you”
On a recent evening, Marco and Naim paired a delicious couscous-inflected white fish with a tamarind margarita, a popular Baobab drink that became an instant classic when it was profiled in a national publication some years ago. Tamarind, derived from small date-like fruit from the Tamarind tree, boasts lots of Vitamin C. Like ginger – another Baobab staple cocktail ingredient known for its antioxidant qualities – tamarind introduces a wellness component to cocktails. Hibiscus, which shows up in numerous Baobab drinks, is associated with women’s health benefits.
With only a hint of irony, Marco explains that even while his bar staff is serving you alcohol, “at the same time we’re trying to cure you.”
“Le Roi” cocktail – Vodka, Chambord, Hibiscus Juice
Tree of life
It makes sense given Baobab’s origins and inspiration, the African Baobab tree, often referred to as “the tree of life” and traditional heart of community life. Marco takes a page from this heritage in crafting his cocktails from natural ingredients including flowers, roots and leaves. The drinks are typically a bit sweet to take the heat off of the spicy fare; local honey from a friend’s garden at 29th and Church sweetens many pours.
For more recommended drinks at Baobab, check out what’s available in the DrinkCode app.
The Baobab crew (Marco second from right, Naim fourth)
Valencia Street: “pretty and magical…a bit like Paris”
Where the food goes, Marco is delighted with the new inspiration coming from his kitchen. “For fifteen years I have been training cooks to prepare my home cooking – and now I have a classically trained chef [re-imagining them],” he shares. Naim, who is here for just a few months, has been training Marco’s staff to continue with his methods after he leaves.
The staff’s enthusiasm for the visiting toque is off the charts, says Marco. “Baobab has always been known for the charisma in the [front of the house] – and suddenly since Naim has arrived everybody who works here wants to go in the kitchen and see what Naim is going to do with the food today!” Where Naim’s feelings for San Francisco go, he is equally intrigued. “I like it very much. It’s really diverse, and there are so many restaurants – it’s not bad,” he adds with a touch of good natured Parisian hauteur.
Among neighborhoods, he is especially taken with the Valencia corridor. “It’s pretty and magical – a bit like Paris.”
Little Baobab in the Mission
Naim will prepare a special Valentine’s Day menu at Baobab, featuring his own vision for the meal with emphasis on classic French technique and West African influence. “It’s going to be Naim’s day,” explains Marco. Call Baobab to reserve a spot: (415) 643-3558.
– Courtney Cochran